Korean beauty skincare routine

First off, you need to know what skin type you fall under, so make sure to check out my previous post to determine your skin type and skincare needs.  It is now time to build your routine!  Don’t worry, it isn’t as scary as it sounds.  But do remember that skincare is trial and error, you never know which products will work for you unless you give it a try.  I had to figure out the hard way, even with my resilient and nonreactive skin, that I’m HIGHLY allergic to rose as an ingredient.

*Please note the routine is not a blanket statement for how a skincare routine should be.  Tweak the routine to your own skin type and skin needs!*

1) DOUBLE CLEANSING
Definition: Using an oil-based product (liquid or balm type) to break down makeup and sunscreen to prep the skin for cleanser

There seems to be some debate about whether double cleansing is necessary.  For years, people have been resorting to makeup wipes to get rid of their make up before using a cleanser or some sort.  However, I find makeup wipes to be not environmentally friendly as well as being harsh on the skin.  I personally have dry skin with sensitive cheeks, which makes the wipe feel like sandpaper on my face.  On top of that, it never seems to be moist enough to do the job properly, and overall just seems way too harsh.

Cleansing balm/ oil was introduced to me when I got into Korean cosmetics and I’ve never looked back. Not only does it hydrate my skin, but it breaks down makeup and sunscreen effortlessly as well as saving me a step of using a cotton tip to clean my eye area.

Those of you who have oily or acne-prone skin who are scared of using oil on your face in fear of clogging your pores, no worries!  There are tons of cleansing oil formulas that are lightweight and not as thick as some.  Etude House’s cleansing oil as well as Banila co’s cult favourite clean it zero, both have different versions for different skin types.

These three are the three cleansing oil products I highly recommend.  I’ve gone through so many cleansing oil, cleansing balms, cleansing jelly products but these are the three best ones I’ve tried so far. Celimax Derma Nature fresh blackhead jojoba cleansing oil 15,000 won for the lightest cleanse that doesn’t fog up my eyes or sting them!  Moonshot perfect cleansing oil cotton 13,500 won is great on the go cleansing oil pad that contains enough product for your whole face and neck, while breaking down even waterproof eyeliner and mascara!!  And of course, 107 Oneoseven oil-in-gel cleanser 28,000 won that isn’t greasy on the skin, does a great job at breaking down everything and doesn’t sting the eye!

2) CLEANSER
Definition: a product that cleans off dirt, grime, oil but not stripping the skin’s natural moisture; eliminates micro-organisms to improve barrier function of skin

Cleansing is a step in your skincare routine where I would say not to splurge on since whatever is going on your face will go down the drain.  Invest your money in products like essences, serums, ampoules, and creams instead.  Cleansers can come in many forms.  Here are the most common ones:

Bar soap: often too harsh for the skin and can strip fats/ lipids in the upper layer; quite frankly this is quite an outdated form of cleanser

I personally don’t like to use bar soaps much since it is so much more of a hassle then liquid cleanser. It is weird to have to store a bar of soap on your counter, have dust and particles stick onto it and then having to rub your hands back into that.  The only bar soap I have ever tried is 107 oneoseven bar soaps, which they are famous for and have built-in fermented vinegar.  Their honey version was my favorite but I think they have since discontinued that one.

Foaming cleanser: Cleanser that foams up to lather the skin but usually more drying; can work with oily skin types but dry skin beware

Although a lot of people don’t like foaming cleansers due to its high sulphate content (usually sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulphate), which cleans a little too well to the point of stripping your skin.  From all the liquid cleansers I’ve tried from K-beauty, although some do foam up, they don’t foam up with tons of bubbles nor do I feel like it strips my skin as much as the western counterpart.  Cosrx low pH good morning gel cleanser is still my #1 favorite and contains tea tree oil to control oils as well as BHA to exfoliate the skin.  Surprisingly, I’ve used this cleanser for years and didn’t realize it had tea tree oil in it since it never tried my super dry skin out.  Highly highly recommend for all skin types!

Another liquid cleanser that foams up ever so slightly but again, doesn’t dry my skin out, is Thank you farmer’s pure daily foaming gel cleanser.  It is super gentle on the skin and does a good job at cleansing and maintaining my skin.

Cleansing milk: a creamy cleanser that does not foam up; works best with normal to dry skin types

Cosrx’s latest first cleansing milk gel is the only cleansing milk I’ve tried, at least one that is memorable.  It is more hydrating than a traditional cleanser, has built-in makeup removal power but don’t rely on this product to remove heavy-duty waterproof make up.  I interchange this milk gel cleanser and Cosrx’s low pH good morning gel cleanser.  It really depends on how I feel that day and if I wore sunscreen or make up that day.

3) EXFOLIATING
Definition: improving skin texture and appearance by removing the top dry layer of the skin cells through mechanical or chemical exfoliation

Exfoliating my skin is my therapeutic past time, especially after I see my skin looking naturally glowy and radiant.  You have to remember not to over exfoliate your skin and also be gentle. The general rule with exfoliating is to do it two to three times a week if you are using a mechanical exfoliate (ex: sugar scrubs), or you can use it daily at small doses through a chemical exfoliating product (ex: products with AHA, BHA, PHA).  Exfoliating improved your skin texture by helping the 28-day cell renewal cycle move along as scheduled, it also helps with age spots and uneven skin tone, as well as helping your skin care products penetrate better into your skin.
For my own routine, I like to mix up both chemical and physical exfoliators since I find chemical exfoliators lack the ability to get rid of the flaking dead skin on the tips of my nose.  They do however do a good job with keeping my blackheads at bay longer then if I didn’t use it.  Wishformula’s bubble peeling pad was one of my introduction to textured pads and really changed my skincare game for the long haul. The textured sponge is soaked in vitamin C to brighten the complexion while the textured side physically scuffs away all the dead skin and you’re left with a very hydrated, glowy complexion (check my full review here).  Another first love is Secret key’s lemon sparkling peeling gel which removes your dead skin like eraser bits off your face, leaving you with a youthful and glowy complexion.  Purito’s ABP triple synergy liquid is another unique product which contains AHA, BHA, and PHA to help remove your dead skin, blackheads and even help with hyperpigmentation over time.

As for manual exfoliators, I still love Skinfood’s black sugar scrub (the original one) in combination with A’pieu’s blackhead wash cleaner which is a silicone tip tool to help get to the cracks and crevices around the nose.  Speaking of textured pads, Neogen’s bio-peel gauze peeling green tea pads (or any of their bio-peel pads) are FANTASTIC.  The essence soaked into it is super hydrating and the texture pad is a great way to essence up my face while exfoliating.  It’s for those days when you don’t want that extra step of exfoliating and just want the skincare routine to be over with, this is your answer!!  Or when you are doing your make up in the morning and you want to make sure all the dead skin is off your face, this is also your answer to life.

4) TONER
Definition: originally designed to remove soap scum, shrink pores, tighten the skin to finish up the cleansing process; also another type that is used as a moisturizing step

Okay don’t shoot me, but I personally don’t believe in using a toner.  I don’t find it to do much for me, so instead, I skip the toner step and replace it with a face mist to prep it so that moisturizer can sink into my skin.  Toners were popular back in the 70’s and 80’s since their cleansers back then would leave soap scum and debris.  This type of toner was considered as an “astringent”, which did the job by irritating the skin slightly and would swell the skin so that the top of the pores would close.  The main issue with toners is the high composition of alcohol, acetone, or witch hazel alongside camphor, menthol, boric acid, and rosewater to name a few, which are produce one issue.  DRYING!

Most toners have steered away from all those alcohol and drying ingredients and have evolved into soothing and hydrating ingredients, almost like a watered-down moisturizer to prep the skin for the next step.

Since I replace toners with face mists, here are two of my recommendations. Jowaeé hydrating water mist with sakura blossom water which you can find in Canada at Shoppers drug mart for $19 200 mL.  I actually saw a bundle deal for $23 I think last week, so check that out.  I love the smell of the mist and it comes out so fine and is super refreshing for the summer.  I just wish they came in a smaller size for travel.  107 oneoseven completely shocked me when I started to fall in love with their rose vinegar water mist. My skin HATES rose but it didn’t react to this mist and leaves my skin super hydrated.  I’m onto my second bottle now!

5) ESSENCE / SERUM/ AMPOULE
Missha time revolution the first treatment essence $39, Laneige cream skin 28,000 won
Essence: contains active ingredients but is more of a watery consistency

Purito centella green level buffet serum 19,600 won, Thank you farmer miracle age repair emulsion 38,000 won
Serum: clear, gel-like solutions consisting of small molecules which penetrate deep into the skin; contains a high concentration of active ingredients such as antioxidants, vitamins, peptides, brightening agents

Cosrx propolis light ampule 23,500 won
Ampoule: Similar to serums but more concentrated active ingredients; usually in a smaller bottle then serum

Serums, essence, ampoules are the trio that always has confused me.  Through research, I now know what the differences are but does this mean I need all three?  Most definitely not!  I’d say pick and choose what is right for you and your skin at the time.  I usually use serums more than anything, but I have started to fall in love with some essences as well.  What is the order you need to apply them in if you use all three?  I’d say always go from lightest to thickest texture-wise.  There are essences out there that are sometimes thicker than serums oddly enough, so just go with the lightest to thickest rule.

6) MOISTURIZER/ CREAM
Definition: a cream or gel product to maintain skin’s barrier; protects your skin’s barrier by providing coverage that can also improve skin’s texture, dryness, and sometimes even sun protection

I’ve heard from many people these quotes:
“I have oily skin so I don’t need to moisturizer.”
“My skin is sensitive and everything that it touches, it gets irritated.”
“I use body wash…” * What the fuck…

Okay last statement is not really related but I just had to throw that in there.  Just because you have oily skin, does not mean you don’t need to moisturize.  The less you moisturizer, the more oil it produces actually since your skin is going on hyperdrive to keep your skin hydrated.  Those with oily skin types, stick with a lightweight, gel formulas.

If your skin insensitive, I’d refer back up top to check out all the EWG brands I recommend and go from there.  Your skin might also be flaring up because it is irritated from being so dehydrated!

And the body wash, shampoo, whatever you use on your body shouldn’t be going on your face!! This FREAKS me out when I hear this, especially when the person is saying it so loud and proud.  Body wash contains tons of fragrance as well asl alcohols that will dry your skin out. AHH!!!

I’ve recently learned that there are three categories of moisturizers!

Humectants: key to maintaining hydration; attracts and chemically binds water to the skin and temporarily plumps skin to improve fine line and wrinkles
Ex: hyaluronic acid having the ability to bind 1,000x its own weight in water; glycerine, hexanediol, butylene glycol, sorbitol
Humectants have the potential to dry the skin out over time due to its properties which extracts water from the deeper layer of skin to replenish the upper layer (stratum corneum).

Occlusive: creates barrier over skin and prevents water loss from surface; usually contains dimethicone, squalene, propylene glycol, lecithin, cocoa butter, shea butter, lanolin, petrolatum, paraffin, beeswax, etc
All these ingredients are great for dry to very dry skin types but have a greasy, shiny finish which might not suit other skin types.

Emollient: acts by replacing skin lipids and fills the gaps between skin cells; usually contains dimethicone, trisiloxane, ceramides, linoleic acid, caprylyl glocol, etc

For lightweight options, here are ones I have tried, tested and love! Purito centella green level recovery cream 19,600 won is the best sensitive skin friendly, EWG certified cream that surprisingly is able to keep my dry skin at bay.  The vegan glow is a new brand I’m testing out and love!  They are vegan, EWG certified as well and their good night cream $35 is another lightweight option that feels more of a lightweight balm than a watery cream like Purito’s.  Lastly, Etude House’s soong jung intensive cream 15,000 won is a cult favorite that I got to test and love the texture of for the spring and summer time.One of my first moisturizers I tried from Cosrx’s honey ceramide full moisture cream 23,000 won and I still love it to this day.  For some reason, I thought they discontinued it, but I guess they might have brought it back?  107 oneoseven’s core flex cream 48,000 won is one of the most underrated moisturizers that contain naturally fermented vinegar to maintain the skin’s natural health.  Both these recommendations are a step up from the first three recommendations, but they don’t have a greasy finish.

If you like something heavy with a greasy finish, these three will be your best bet.  Holika Holika super ceramide cream 22,000 won has been a long time favorite that I’ve always recommended as a dupe for Dr. Jart’s ceramide cream.  It is super balmy, thick and hydrating with a light greasy finish.  I’d recommend using it in the night time if the greasy finish bothers you, but I actually enjoy that all through the day since I’m bare face most of the time.  Thank you farmer’s miracle age repair cream 45,000 won is another super thick option, but I’d honestly go for their emulsion for the same line if you want something super moisturizing.  T’iam aura milk face peeling cream 32,000 won has AHA, BHA, PHA built into it along with milk extract to peel your skin while deeply hydrating your skin all at the same time.

7) EYE CREAM
For years, I never believed in eye creams since I never saw real results.  Blinking at about 20,000 times a day, the eye area works a lot for us so we should take extra precaution to protect it.  The beauty market has portrayed that you HAVE to have a separate product for your eyes because it is so thin and fragile. Contrary to popular belief, you don’t have to buy a separate eye cream, it is mostly marketing.  Take the time to read the ingredients for a face moisturizer and eye cream and you’ll find the ingredients is not all that much different.  Although this might be the cause, you may not want to be using products like blemish treatment, super oily products or heavily fragranced products under your eyes.The only eye cream I can confidently recommend is still Amorepacific’s rejuvenating eye treatment gel $85.  Although on the price range, I actually saw my fine lines under my eyes plump up, look super hydrated and I look so much more awake and youthful.  One jar would last for about 2-3 months if used once a day.  Unfortunately for me, my mother stole my whole jar so I’m left with nothing now :(.  She has since bought 4 more jars and still uses it religiously.  It is super lightweight, nongreasy and is packed with their patent green tea extraction which not only is good for hydration but is a great antioxidant to fight aging.

One big thing I’ve never thought about doing until recently is using sun protection under the eyes!  To prevent age-related sagging, puffy eyes or pigmentation around the eye area, wearing sun protection is vital and more important than actually using eye cream!  Don’t forget that~~

I haven’t come across a ton of sunscreens for the eye area in K-beauty, other then the one eye stick I got from A’pieu.  The one I’m currently using is from a Canadian brand called Reversa, which you can find at your local shopper’s drug mart for $33 CDN.  The formulation isn’t greasy at all, I haven’t seen any reactions or irritation so it is a thumbs up for me.